Safe Cycling Tips

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For the majority of short local cycling trips there is generally no need to wear special clothing. In fact most of the time it is possible to cycle in smart clothes provided they allow you the right movement.

• Helmets
  A helmet can provide protection if you fall off your bike. They are particularly recommended for young children learning to cycle. You should only buy a helmet if it carries a CE mark and one of the normal safety standards.
  
  It is essential that it is comfortable and fitted correctly -- a badly fitted helmet can be a liability not a protection. If a helmet has been involved in a serious accident or fall then replace it. If fitting a helmet on a child take great care not to pinch the skin under the chin as this is a sure way of putting them off wearing it.
  
  Safe cycling skills and road awareness to reduce the risk of head injury are more important over the protection a helmet can offer. Helmets can only offer limited measure to risk minimisation and they are not a pre-requisite for safe cycling. No one should ever suggest that a cycle helmet “improves safety”. A helmet can reduce the severity of head injuries resulting from a direct low-speed blow to areas of the head, such as might result from a fall or collision
• Tops
  On longer journeys several layers will allow you to adjust to different temperatures. Although for most weather conditions 3 layers made up of a skin tight base layer, a thermal middle layer (fleece/jumper) and an outer shell layer should be enough to keep you warm and dry. All layers should be long enough to cover your back.
  
  A fleece is ideal for keeping warm on chilly days and a shower/waterproof top with zips (to help you adjust to temperature changes) can be packed in your bag just in case.
  
  Breathable waterproof clothes tend to be expensive, but are a good investment for regular cyclists offering maximum protection while allowing sweat to escape.
  
  Cotton fabrics are generally not recommended. This is due to cottons high absorbency. Once cotton is wet, it can remain so for a long period. The fabric looses its ability to breathe and becomes cold and damp, this can be quite uncomfortable. Non-cotton layers worn next to the skin are recommended.
• Shorts and trousers
  Padded cycling shorts or underpants, whether loose or lycra, can guard against discomfort on long journeys and are available in male and female versions. Leggings or tracksuit trousers can go over these in the cold weather and a pair of waterproof trousers is essential if you intend to cycle in all conditions.
  
  Thick cotton trousers and jeans are not recommended for damp/wet weather conditions.
• Gloves
  Your extremities are much more susceptible to cold on a bike than when you are out walking so a pair of gloves is a winter must. Padded cycle mittens provide additional comfort. A light colour helps your arm signals to be seen clearly.
• Shoes
  Trainers or everyday shoes are fine for most journeys, although specialised shoes that clip into the pedals are available for the really dedicated. Ensure laces are tucked in to save them being caught in the chain.
• Bright and reflective clothing
  Wear something brightly coloured or fluorescent during the day and something reflective at night. The yellow Sam Brown style belts are good as they are small and light and both fluorescent and reflective.

Also popular are reflective / fluorescent trouser clips or velcro straps that fit around your ankle and prevent your clothes getting tangled.

Cycling in the dark without lights and reflectors puts you at great risk.

Cyclists often see quite well when riding without lights due to street and shop lights but it can be almost impossible for drivers to see cyclists if they have not taken the correct safety measures for night time cycling.

For more information please contact Kingston Council’s Cyclist Training Coordinator on 020 8547 5865 or email CCST@rbk.kingston.gov.uk.

Lighting Tips

Below are some tips to help keep you safe on your bike at night:-

• Lighting-up time is sunset or when visibility is seriously reduced. If in doubt, switch your lights on
• Your cycle must have front and rear lights lit and must also be fitted with a red rear reflector (and amber pedal reflectors if manufactured after 1/10/85)
• Since October 2005 it is now NOT illegal to use flashing lights on your bicycle. If either of the lights is capable of emitting a steady light, then it must conform to BS 6102-3 and be marked accordingly, even if used in flashing mode. Purely flashing lights are not required to conform to BS6102-3, but the flash rate must be between 60 and 240 equal flashes per minute (1-4 per second) and the luminous intensity must be at least 4 candela. (This should be advised by the manufacturer).
• A steady light is recommended at the front when the cycle is used in areas without good street lighting instead of a flashing light.
• Dynamos have the attraction of providing 'free' energy to your lights, they are unlikely to be stolen and avoid the pollution caused by disposable batteries. However, this energy comes from you - some people may find it harder to pedal. Dynamo lights may not work while you are stationary
• Battery powered lights are generally cheaper than dynamo sets, and can be easily removed to prevent theft (lights should always be removed when locking up your bike). Rechargeable batteries are a good option for the regular night cyclist and are yet another way to avoid the pollution caused by disposable batteries.

What you need

There is a range of bicycle tools available, however all you need to start with are screwdrivers, Allen keys, spanners, a pump, tyre levers, cleaning rags, an old toothbrush, lubricants and a puncture repair kit.

Daily maintenance

Each day you use your bike, give it a quick once-over. In particular, check the condition of your tyres and their pressure.

Weekly maintenance

Lubricate exposed moving parts of the bike, such as the chain and gear mechanisms taking care not to get any on wheel rims or brake blocks.

Monthly maintenance

• Wheels
  Check tyre pressures and condition, and ensure wheels are properly fastened and in line with the frame.
   
• Brakes
  Check brake blocks for wear and ensure they contact squarely with the rim, not the tyre. Replace worn or frayed brake cables and adjust brakes levers so that they do not contact the handlebars when braking hard.
   
• Gears
  Check gears work correctly and cables move freely. It is best to eave gear repairs to a cycle mechanic. Clean the chain with a rag soaked in degreaser then re-oil.
   
• Steering
  Check for looseness in the handlebar and stem and tighten when necessary.
   
• Pedals
  Pedals should spin freely so check the pedal axles for looseness and tighten.
   
• Frame
  Regularly inspect the frame for any damage. Ensure the seat height is correct and that the seat post bolt is tight.

Puncture repairs

Punctures do not happen very often but remain the most common form of breakdown. It is worth learning how to mend them:

1. Release brake callipers and remove the wheel.
2. Use tyre levers, available from bike shops, to remove the tyre.
3. Carefully run your fingers around the inside of the tyre to check for sharp objects, such as nails, splinters of glass or thorns. Remove the cause of the puncture and check that there are no more spikes in the tyre.
4. Find the hole in the tube, either by pumping it up and holding it underwater to look for bubbles, or by feeling for escaping air.
5. Mark the hole with pen or chalk. Use sandpaper or the scratcher from the puncture repair kit to scuff the area around the hole to help secure the glue to the tube.
6. Spread glue thinly around the hole and wait for the glue to dry until it feels tacky to touch. Place a patch above the marked hole and apply pressure.
7. Lightly pump up the tube. Place one edge of the tyre around the wheel rim and push the tube's valve into the rim's hole. Starting from the valve, push the rest of the tube into the tyre. Ensure the valve system is perpendicular to the rim and that the tube is not twisted. Once the tube is inside the tyre, begin to place the second edge of the tyre onto the rim. Take care not to pinch and damage the tube. When complete pump a little more air into the tube and check that the tube isn't caught between the rim and the tyre.
8. Slide the wheel back into place on the bike and tighten the bolts gradually, ensuring that the wheel remains aligned straight to the frame. Reconnect the brakes.
9. Fully pump up the tyre. Take the bike on a short ride and check that the brakes are still set up correctly.

Tip: Save time on journeys and carry a spare inner tube with you, so that you can mend punctures when you get home.

Whatever type of bike you have it is essential to keep it secure. Almost 400,000 bicycles are stolen every year in England and Wales.

However, following a few simple steps and a small investment in the right type of lock could help you minimise the risk of yours being one of them.

For more information please contact Kingston Council’s Cyclist Training Coordinator on 020 8547 5865 or email CCST@rbk.kingston.gov.uk.

The basic rules

• always lock up your bike when leaving it unattended -- even for only a few minutes
• choose a location that is easily visible
• if a purpose built cycle stand is not available choose a fixed piece of street 'furniture', making sure the bike cannot be lifted off (e.g. lamp post, short post)
• please be careful not to obstruct the way for other users (e.g. wheelchair users, the visually impaired, and people with baby buggies). Please respect any specific requests not to use a particular fixture
• make sure that any detachable items such as wheels, saddles and lights are secured or removed.

Choosing a bike lock

There is a variety of locks available -- the main choices are chain and padlock combination (cheap and flexible), cable locks (useful for securing parts of the bike such as the saddle) and solid metal D-locks.

There is a government backed system to test and grade cycle locks depending on the level of security offered, with D-locks generally offering the highest level of security.

Security marking and registration

Keeping photographs and a record of the frame number could help the police identify and recover your bike if stolen. Most bike shops should also be able to advise you and sell micro-chipping on new bikes.

Security at home

A recent survey found that over half of all cycle thefts take place on the owners property, including thefts from garages, sheds and gardens. Make sure the place you keep your bike is secure, and consider installing a steel loop or other fixed anchor point to a wall for locking your bike. If this is not possible try to keep your bike out of sight so not to attract the opportunist thief.

Insurance

It is a good idea to insure your bike. An easy way to do this is to extend your home contents insurance to cover your bicycle and make sure it covers you for thefts outside the home too.

If your bicycle is particularly valuable you may need to insure it separately and the insurer may require you to use certain specified levels of security. Some insurers will offer a discount for using an approved security marking and registration scheme -- check the requirements and see if your local bike shop can help you provide it.